Kibungan Cross Country Traverse also known as "KXC", (though really not a cross country hike) is a hike starting from the town of Kibungan in Benguet, descending to the town of Licungan / Sugpon in the province of Ilocos Sur, and finally making that final push to the municipality of Santol, La Union. In this regard, KXC is also popularly referred to as "tri-provincial traverse".
On to Kibungan, Benguet
With a call time of 2200H, members of our group began to trickle in at the McDonald's EDSA corner Quezon Avenue (also in the corner of Panay Avenue) as early as 2130H. While I live relatively near the area (maybe the nearest among all us hikers), I was the last one to arrive at 2215H (sorry guys, the usual traffic problems). After stashing our gears at the back of the van and brief moments of chit-chat, we eventually left for Baguio City at 2245H.
We had brief stop overs at the PTT Gas Station in the SCTEX, as well as at the Shell Gas Station in Rosario La Union (just before the Kennon Road), for "jingle" breaks, buy additional provisions, and more importantly, for our driver to be able to unwind and have some rest. Passing through the Kennon Road, we arrived at the City of Pines at around 0345H. We then immediately went to the public market to do some much needed marketing, which took us about an hour to finish. At 0500H, we continued towards La Trinidad en route to Kibungan.
From Baguio City, Kibungan is a 2 to 3-hour drive on an initially descending terrain through the Kapangan-Kibungan-Bakun Road, until the ascend towards Kibungan town proper. We initially traversed the Halsema Highway and passed through the La Trinidad Valley until we ultimately reached the junction leading to the town of Kapangan. The roads are well paved, albeit, with brief rough portions but still, even sedans (in other words, vans can easily navigate the roads) can make their way until Kibungan.
Once in Kapangan, we made a stopover at the ___________ eatery for breakfast. To our delight, they serve generous servings (Their cup of rice is actually twice the usual serving in Manila).
While we already were able to reach Kibungan Municipal Hall at 0820H, we still had to continue past the town proper to search for a gas station. We were however informed that there was actually no gas station in Kibungan and that they buy gas from informal retailers (bote-bote) only. Good thing is that we were able to locate the mini-grocery store that sells gas. And take note, the gas that they are going to sell will be available only once the 1st bus trip from Baguio City arrives at 1000H-1030H. So our driver decided to just prepay 8 liters of gas for Php80.00 per liter (it really is expensive, so better make sure that you have enough gas).
It was already 0910H when we again arrived at the Tourism Center. We immediately registered our group, paid the appropriate fees, signed individual waivers, and secured our local guide (Michael). Thereafter, we settled ourselves at the nearby waiting shed and repacked our bags as we included the needed logistics and other personal stuff for the climb. At 0945H, we left the Tourism Area and headed to the jumpoff leading to Sitio Ayas, a few minutes from town.
Day 1 - Kibungan, Benguet to Tacadang (Es-Esla Adalos Elementary School)
From the Tourism Center, we again rode the van and were dropped off by at a hair pin bend in the outskirts of Kibungan town proper.
Upon arrival, we again had our last minute checks, while the others started to do some stretching. When everything was set, we had our customary prayer and subsequently started trekking at 1020H.
We followed the dirt path that eventually led us to a concrete road. We passed by a local cemetery and continued to descend as we followed the pavement. From here, we can see the stunning views of the mountains in Kibungan, as well as that in nearby Bakun. We then entered a pine forest where the pavement became slippery because of the moss covering some parts thereof. We occasionally met locals along the trail, including an old woman who informed us that she needed to go back to Sitio Ayas and get his Senior Citizens card/book in order to be able to get her allowance from the government. We had our very first take five along the trail. And when we continued, I decided to climb with the last group and act as the sweeper of the climb.
It was 1100H when we reached the very first hanging bridge (For the duration of the climb, we crossed at least 15 hanging bridges, aside from the occasional concrete, metal and wooden bridges that dot the trail.). The second hanging bridge came a few minutes later as we followed the contours of the mountain and the river. The uphill climb went on until we arrived at the first residential area. We then decided to have lunch at the local store since it began to rain at that time.
From the local house/store where we had lunch (house after the native hut), we followed the trail that took us above the residential area. From here, we could see the high altitude that we still had to climb. Nevertheless, as it was already raining from the time we were having lunch, an impressive of waterfalls seemed to have been welcoming us. We then arrived at and crossed a hanging bridge and tramped rice paddies up until we reached the popular egg boulder staircase that leads up to Buga campsite. From here, the trail led us to a pine forest with more lung-busting inclines. Thinking that Buga Campsite is located at the top of the mountain we aimed to reach the apex without a breather only to discover later on that we still need to negotiate additional ground to reach it. By this time, we were already drenched both in sweat and rain, as fog was started to cover the view of the mountains. Nonetheless, the landscape became more picturesque than ever.
Just before reaching Buga campsite, strong winds and heavy rains made us scramble over what seemed to be 80-degree inclines. We had to be very careful since the trail has become rather slippery. We finally reached Buga campsite at around 1510H. Too bad, fog and rain clouds covered what should have been a magnificent view of the surrounding mountains that made Kibungan to be known as The Switzerland of the Philippines. We continued to the residential area just below the trail after Buga campsite.
We stayed at the ground floor of the house to gather our wits and shield us from the punishing cold rain outside. We replenished our water containers for what are supposed to be the hardest parts of the climb up to the Tagpaya Campsite.
We followed the uphill climb until we are now facing Mt. Tagpaya. While the rain soaked us and made the climb more difficult, the glorious view of a number of waterfalls that greeted us took all the weariness away. After crossing another hanging bridge, the enduring assault to Tagpaya Campsite commenced. We pass by pine forest where the dreaded limatiks began to be visible. We actually spent some time at the water source trying to wash ourselves and get rid of these fearsome creatures.
Going forward, we tramped along the edge of the mountain wall, with some of the deepest crevasses especially in the area where naturally sculptured boulder (where five people can easily fit in to seek cover from the elements) is located. It was a good thing that the darkness of the night already began to creep in as we Sweepers of the group approach the area. The metal handrails offered some assurance against hikers accidentally slipping towards the ravine. After another steep and winding assault, we finally arrived at the Tagpaya Campsite.
As the rain kept on pouring in this area, punishing wind similarly made the hike harder. Hence, we decided to continue towards the waiting shed located a few minutes from the nearby water source. The signboard indicating Tacadang to be just 2 kilometers away gave us a little comfort (This sign is a misnomer since Tacadang is still so far). Our hopes were a bit dampened when a local we met at the waiting shed mentioned that Tacadang is still 2-3 hours away (contrary to that indicated in the signboard) owing to the slippery conditions of the trail. It was already 1900H when we eventually decided to cut the chitchat and continue the hike to Tacadang.
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| At the big boulder |
Although we tried very hard to avoid the swarms of blood-sucking leeches (limatik) that were after each one of us, the mere fact that we knew that they are just all around the area made us comfortable and paranoid.throughout the hike to Tacadang. From the waiting shed, we slowly descended the slippery and muddy trail until we reached the concrete ladder-like part that ended when we reached a hanging bridge. We then ascended and reached a clearing and eventually arrived at a tree with a signage that says "Tapat ko, linis ko" in both Tagalog and the vernacular language.
At first, our spirits were somewhat dampened when we noticed the lights far in the horizon emanating from the headlamps of our chaser / middle (2nd) group, thinking that we still had to climb the mountain on the left side. Less than a hundred meters from here is another signage pointing the way to Tacadang, as well as to other villages. It was here that our guide Michael arrived to help some of our fellow hikers in the sweeper group carry their heavy load. You can only imagine how glorious our faces have been when Michael said that we are only 30 minutes away from Tacadang, much less, that we are not going to scale another mountain for the day but would just need to traverse the open grassland in front of us.
We followed the footpath that cut through the grassland and encountered a herd of cows. We snaked through the clearing until the flickering lights in Tacadang eventually became more apparent. At 2100H, we finally arrived at the Es-Esa S. Alodos Elementary School where we shall camp in one of the school rooms for the night (Just because the school grounds are teeming with limatik).
Day 2 - Tacadang, Kibungan, Benguet Tacadang to Licungan, Sugpon, Ilocos Sur via Batangan (Litalit Trail)
It was about 0500H when I was roused from my deep slumber by the nearby smell, which signified that breakfast is almost ready. While it was still dark outside, our guide (Michael) has already started preparing breakfast. As we still have a long way to go, we decided to start preparing our gears, more importantly, psyching ourselves up for a more rigorous (and dangerous) day of tramping.
As we were having breakfast, Michael pointed to us where Batangan is. He initially advised us that it would be ideal for us to reach Batangan by 1300H or 1400H at the latest, so that we can still have time to negotiate the dreaded Litalit Trail going down to Licungan.
While we intended to break camp and commence the trek at 0800H, it was already 0915H when we left Tacadang and was the last group to do so. We again followed the grassland at the back of the school and the scene was simply breathtaking. We now had a better view of the Ling-ey Rice Terraces, that seemed to be so far away.
From the grassland, we then followed the trail towards the left and passed through some residential area until we are actually adjacent to the mountain wall. As the concrete trail was so slippery, we had to carefully descend on a relaxed pace. From here, it was an unceasing descent towards a series of hanging bridges, water falls and rice terraces. This famous "Crying Mountains of Kibungan" is actually found before the final approach to the Ling-ey Rice Terraces. (The best spot to get a snap of this view is beneath it and a few minutes from the hanging bridge that will ultimately bring you to Ling-ey.).
As we decided to choose to be cautious, we eventually sacrificed pace. We cooked and had lunch along the trail, a few minutes from the hanging bridge beneath one of the "Crying Mountain's" waterfalls (Just a few meters from the hanging bridge that will cross the mountain to Batangan.).
It was 1330H when we commenced hiking and started the unrelenting climb to Batangan. We made our way through the rice terraces as we again attempted to gain higher altitude for the final time in this part of the hike. While we were at the middle of the rice terraces, rain started to pour. While I opted to get wet to cool myself, the other members of us Sweeper Team at that time chose to keep dry and sought some much needed shelter in a nearby house.
It was already 1420H when we arrived at the base of the challenging assault through the concrete-like cum mountain wall that similarly doubles as a stream after the rain that just drenched the area. As we gained elevation, we continuously huffed and puffed our way until we arrived at the first vestiges of the community of Batangan (...a hut on the left side at end of the concrete-like boulder trail.). We then followed the trail and snaked through the residential area and passed across a waterfall as we ascended towards the footpath leading to Batangan Elementary School. At 1500H, we finally arrived at the school and regrouped with the lead pack.
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| After the big boulder...looking back at the crying mountains |
Our lead pack nevertheless left for Licungan at 1545H. As for us Sweeper Group, we decided to get additional rest and left Batangan at 1615H.
We followed the trail at the back of the school (or is it considered front) and crossed the concrete bridge. We made our way towards the summit of Mt. Batangan, which is actually the final climb before descending the notorious Litalit Trail, crossing the Benguet-Ilocos Sur boundary, towards Licungan village in the town of Sugpon. As we were approaching the summit area, the footpath turned red clay in consistency. And at 1645H, we finally arrived at the top.
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| Hike from Batangan to Litalit |
At the summit, the awesome view of Batangan on the east would show how the place is surrounded by both the Ling-ey an Les-eng Rice Terraces, the scenic Cordillera, and a faint Tacadang village where we started the trek earlier that day. On the west is the literally jaw-dropping and nerve wracking drop to Ilocos Sur (Litalit Trail), the mighty Amburayan River, and the mountains of upper La Union. Of course, this is the place that will afford the best sunset view in the area.
Generally, mountaineers would make sure that they descend Batangan going to Licungan as early as possible due to the technical nature of the trail. Imagine descending along 70 to 90-degree staircases carved on the mountain wall, with ravines in front and beside you. Yes, it is no joke and can actually be deadly. This part of the trail is not really for the fainthearted. Hence, prudence dictates that descending the Litalit Trail should be done with no enough sunlight.
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| Sunset at the Litalit Trail |
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| Thank God for this wonderful view |
Though we knew of the technical nature of the trail, us Sweeper Group decided to spend a little more time at the summit area for photo ops and enjoy the sunset. We decided among ourselves to just prepare our headlamps and inch our way down the mountain as careful as we possibly can. In the meantime, we enjoyed one of the most panoramic sunsets over the Cordillera and the West Philippine Sea.
As darkness began to take over, we began the arduous descent to Licungan. The initial approach is a bearable hike on a concrete stairway that is undergoing construction at that time. As the cement is still wet, we were careful not to give much pressure on the metal posts and railings. Nevertheless, as it was a steep descent, with the ravine located around us, we decided to take it easy and enjoy as much as we can.
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| Litalit 6 |
The descent to Licungan went on, Gani and I were actually at the tail end of the sweeper group and had to wait every now and then for us to have some distance with the pacers. We would squat, slide, sit on rocks, and of course, look at the lights that the campers below would flash towards our direction (They actually thought that we were in trouble). At 2015H, we finally reached the rolling parts of the trail and encountered some tree cover (I am hesitant to call it forest). This eventually led us to a clearing (grassland), which we were able to reach 15 minutes later.
Talking to our chaser group through radio, who were at that time was already having refreshment at the local store before the campsite, we were informed that we are already near. Upon hearing this, we decided to further slack off at the clearing, look at the night sky, and do some stargazing. As we actually spent more than 30 minutes at the clearing, we would later on discover that there was a miscommunication between us and the chaser group who failed to remember the "clearing" that we were actually situated, and mistook that for the field before the residential houses in Licungan. Hence, what we thought to be a mere 30 minute hike to the campsite turned out to be a few hours more at the pace that we have set.
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| At the grassland / clearing |
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| Napagod sa wall descending |
From the clearing, we had to negotiate more steep descents along the arid and dusty trail. What seemed to be an eternity of steep and cragged trail went on until we arrived at the "cable car" used by the locals to transport their goods from the mountain to the lower lands. It was already 2315H when we arrived there. From here, we continued to tramp at the ridge where the "grassland" that our chase group was referring to earlier. It was here that we met our guide (Michael) who decided to backtrail from the campsite in order to assist us.
Since we were already short on hydration, Michael was able to find a makeshift water source when we reached the flat lands before the rice fields. One of the rubber hoses that lead to the residential area actually had a small hole that resulted to a miniature water spout. We spent about 15 minutes here. Refreshed, it was already 1215 when we continued the hike through the rice fields and into the residential area with the optimism that we can finally take a bath at the local water source.
Unfortunately, the faucet at the residential area we passed through is all dried up. Maybe the water line was inserted towards another line that leads to a different residential area. As such, we just waited for the rest of us sweeper group before heading towards the campsite. It was already 0040H of the next day when we arrived at the campsite, dead tired, but still happy and feeling great. Three of us even had our own socials until 0330H, which enabled us to enjoy the bright red moon that emblazoned the night sky.
Day 3 - Licungan, Sugpon, Ilocos Sur to Santol, La Union
It was already 0645H when I was awakened by Engr telling me to eat breakfast and that we need to breakcamp early since the sun is expected to emerge from the east (where the Litalit Trail is located) any moment.
We left the campsite ahead of most of the climbers at that time. It was 0830H when he headed westward towards La Union. We followed the dirt path that snaked through some rolling terrain until the trail descended continuously towards the river. Though ascending, still the trail has its slippery parts. We were treated to a view of the remaining parts of the hike especially the final mountain that we need to ascend.
We then reached the concrete stairs that went on as we further descended towards the Amburayan River. At 0930H, we arrived at the local water source and decided to re-fill our water bottles and wash our faces to further cool us. The concrete steps continued until we reached the famous hanging bridge at 0950H.
As the hanging bridge can only accommodate 2-3 persons at one time (but with the locals, they can cross the hanging bridge up to 5-6 persons), there is already a long queue of both hikers and locals on both the Ilocos Sur and La Union sides of the bridge. After 15-20 minutes of waiting, our turn to cross this rickety and unstable hanging bridge came.
Crossing the initial part of the hanging bridge is relatively easy. It is the same as crossing Jangjang bridge in Bokod, Benguet, and the other hanging bridges in Kibungan. The hard part is after you cross the middle portion where the bridge starts to ascend to the other river bank (La Union side of the river). Each step would be harder as the bridge would become more erratic and the parallel metal wire that will serve as your support will ultimately be out of your reach. Nevertheless, we were all able to reach the other side without any untoward incident. Crossing the bridge would generally take about 6 to 10 minutes.
At the other side of the river, we initially rested at the bamboo grove before starting to negotiate the unceasing climb to KXCs end point. The trail followed the riverbank until we reached a hut where we had spent some time before transferring to the next hut cum store some fifty meters above it. They offer refreshments and snacks at the store. Most of us ate some pancakes, sipped some coffee, and refilled our water containers (water is free).
From the store, we tramp along the rice field until we entered another bamboo grove where a stream is located. I suppose this part of the trail will either be mostly covered with water or at least muddy in the rainy season. One of our fellow hikers took the chance to refill his water bottle in this area. From there, the ascending trail continued until we reached the waiting shed. Here, the remaining parts of the hike would start to become visible. We would occasionally meet locals along the way and one startling incident that we all remembered was that of meeting locals carrying two piglets that were masterfully stowed in separate ends of a bamboo pole.
From the waiting shed, the rolling terrain continues until we entered the tree cover provided by a mixture of bamboo groves and trees that are prominent in the area. We continued to ascend until we finally reached the river. There are two paths here that will eventually meet at the other side of the river. One will go straight and lead to a foot bridge (we took this part of the trail), while the other on the left crossed the river and continued towards the other riverbank. Most hikers would tend to eat lunch in this part of the river. Some would even swim and enjoy the cool and clear water.
The footpath would eventually ascended to a rice field (seems like rice terraces) and continue towards open terrain. As it was already almost midday when we arrived here and thinking that we are still at least least an hour and a half away from the end of the hike (as per the info relayed to us by one guide but the truth is we were just 30 minutes away), we decided to spend a considerable time resting under the cover of the trees (mostly banana trees) that are sporadically found along the trail.
When we continued hiking, we ascended towards the pine tree forest and were greeted by the cool breeze. As the sweepers of the group, we decided to take additional time and get some sleep. It was only when we were able to contact our lead group that we were just 15 to 20 minutes from the end that we decided to advance. The foot path would lead to an open trail that will continuously ascend towards the end of the hike where the jeepneys are parked and a store that sells cold soda is located.
KXC is really a challenging hike. The stunning views along the trail and the numerous hanging bridges, waterfalls, mountain vistas, and rice terraces make it a unique experience. The deceiving parts of the trail with assaults that did not seem to end no matter how far we have moved forward all, especially the glimpse that we had of one of the remotest places in the Philippines made the Kibungan Cross-Country hike more special.
***By the way, our KXC hike was organized by no less than Sir Allan (yes, the same Allan of Skookum Mountaineers) who happens to operate the S'TourS together with Sir JR Arambulo. You may refer to the STours FB Page for your hiking and beacheneering needs.
Tramping Chronicles #046
009.002-003.017
Kibungan Cross Country - Tri-Provincial Traverse
Kibungan Benguet to Sugpon Ilocos Sur to Santol La Union
Jumpoff Point: Kibungan Benguet
690 MASL - Highest Elevation
Days required/ Hours to summit: 1-2 days/ 7-10 hours
Specs: Major climb, Difficulty 9/10, trail class 1-4
Highlights: Unlimited Assault, Steep Descent, Rock Climbing, Grassland, Waterfalls hopping, Rice Terraces Pine Forest, Hanging Bridges, The Crying Mountain, The Switzerland of the Philippines, Panoramic view of the Cordillera.
Actual Itinerary:
Day 0
2200H – Meet up McDonald's Quezon Avenue corner EDSA
2245H – Departure for Baguio City from McDonald's Quezon Ave. cor EDSA
Day 1
0000H – Stop-over at PTT Gas Station SCTEX
0200H – Stop-over at 7-11 / Shell Gas Station Rosario, La Union
0345H – Arrival in Baguio (Buy stuff/provisions at the Public Market)
0500H – Departure from Baguio to Kibungan
0630H – Breakfast (Kapangan, Benguet)
0730H – Departure for Kibungan
0820H – Arrival in Kibungan (we decide to look for gas before going to the Registration Area)
0910H – Arrival at the Registration Area - Pay fees / Secure guide
0945H – Departure from the Kibungan Municipal Hall for the JOP
1020H – Commence Hiking
1100H – First Hanging Bridge
1150H – Arrival at (Lunch)
1300H – Continued Hike to Buga Campsite
1335H – Arrival at famous "Egg Boulder"
1445H – Arrival at Buga Campsite
1450H – Long rest at a local residence just after Buga Campsite / Refill water bottles
1515H – Continued Hike to Mt. Tagpaya
1715H – Mt. Tagpaya Campsite
1730H – Arrival at the waiting shed / Long rest stop
1810H – Commence hiking to Tacadang
1950H – Arrival at the last Hanging Bridge
2020H – Arrival at the junction to Tacadang
2110H – Arrival at Es-Esla Adalos Elementary School
2130H – Dinner / Wash-up
2200H – Socials / Lights-out
Day 2
0645H – Wake up call
0730H – Breakfast / Final Preparations
0915H – Departure from Tacadang to Batangan
0950H – Start of long descent in slippery concrete trail
1245H – Lunch along the trail
1330H – Start of climb to Batangan / Rice Terraces
1420H – Arrival at the boulder cum river ascent
1500H – Arrival at Batangan Elementary School / Rest Stop
1615H – Departure for Litalit Trail
1645H – Arrival at the Summit overlooking Licungan / Litalit Trail / Photo Ops / Sunset Viewing
1740H – Start descending the Litalit Trail
2010H – End of wall descending / Rest Stop
2030H – Arrival at the clearing
2110H – Continued descent to Licungan
2315H – Arrival at the area where a cable is located / grassland
0000H – Makeshift water source
0015H – Continued Hike
0020H – Arrival at the rice terraces before the residential area
0030H – Arrival at the residential area
0040H – Arrival at the campsite
0100H – Dinner / Socials
0330H – Lights off
Day 3
0600H – Wake up call / Breakfast / Final Preparations
0830H – Departure from Licungan to Santol La Union
0930H – Local water source
0950H – Arrival at the long hanging bridge / queue
1020H – Reached the other side of the river
1030H – Arrival at the 1st hut / waited for sweeper group
1045H – Arrival at the 2nd hut / store / rest / eat snacks
1115H – Continued Hiking
1145H – Arrival at the waiting shed
1215H – Arrival at the River Crossing
1240H – Long rest along the trail after the rice terraces
1310H – Continued Hiking
1340H – Arrival at the Pine Trees / Long rest
1450H – Continued Final Assault
1520H – Arrival at the Final Stop of the Hiking / Rest
1600H – Jeepney Ride to Balaoan
1710H – Arrival in Balaoan Town Proper / No water at the usual wash up site / Resort
1740H – Departure from Balaoan to San Fernando City
1810H – Arrival at the resort / Wash up
1940H – Departure from the resort
2000H – Dinner at
2110H – Departure for Manila
Day 4
0240H – Arrival Mcdonald's Quezon Avenue corner EDSA
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| Ang mga Harkor ng Litalit |
OTHER NOTES:
While our itinerary was actually infused in the usual 3day/2night hike, some have been able to do the KXC with an overnight hike, and for the daring, a dayhike (there was a group of hikers during the 3rd day of our hike who just did what seemed to be an improbable task). While the climb would actually take you to three (3) provinces, most and the hardest parts of the climb and descent would take place in Kibungan.
Although most blogs / itineraries would set the Kibungan Municipal Hall (where the Tourist Center / Registration Area is similarly located) as the jump-off, hikers may actually adjust their jump-off point (JOP) to a different location so long as there is an available ride for the group.
In our case, we took the van some 15 minutes after the town and started the hike from the Kibungan-Bakun Road (where a cemetery is situated). Actually, landslides along the road prevented us from going further (nearer to Sitio Ayas). According to our guide, there is another JOP after the landslides but was only navigable at that time by jeepneys.
****Credits to the owners of the pictures that were posted here. Thanks a lot.
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