Mt. Pulag via Akiki Trail

"Climb the mountain not to plant your flag, but to embrace the challenge, enjoy the air and behold the view. Climb it so that you can see the world, not so the world can see you."

                                                                                                   - David McCullough Jr.

The Akiki Trail leading up to Mt. Pulag (Luzon's ceiling) is known for its reputation as the most difficult route. As such, while most climbers choose to scale Mt. Pulag through the Ambangeg Trail (celebrity trail), in contrast, only a few dare to hike up Luzon's highest peak through this fabled "killer trail".

Mt. Pulag

Skookum

Mt. Pulag Summit - Just relieved that we made it through Akiki

While stories about the Akiki experience is customary in social media and in the internet, passionate mountaineers still dream to experience what it really is like to hike up this dreaded trail into the "Playground of the gods."

As there were remaining slots left in the group organized by our fellow Skookum Mountaineer, we decided to join the StourS in its Akiki-Ambangeg climb.Since we were actually last-minute joiners, Gani and I had to try our luck at the Genesis Bus Station in Cubao, Quezon City for a ride going to Baguio City. It was just unfortunate for us that they only had one cancellation for the Joybus. Hence, we chance passengers were forced to wait and just hail a bus along EDSA. Fortunately, at 2300H, a Genesis Bus (coming from the Dagupan Bus Station on the other side of EDSA, stopped. For us on a race against the clock, sitting on the bus conductor's seat and the platform beside the driver is always better than not having the luxury of time. Hence, we agreed to bus conductor's offer for us to take those respective seats until we reach Binalonan, Pangasinan, where a bus passenger will first alight from the bus. As to the second, it will be as far as Pugo. La Union. Still, we considered ourselves lucky because our bus will traverse the TPLEX and will take the exit in Urdaneta City.

We finally arrived in Baguio City at 0330H and as we still had much time to spare, we decided to eat Beef Pinapaitan in one of the eateries at the Baguio Central Terminal. From there, we went to the nearby 7-11 convenience store to buy our final provisions. At 0415H, we decided to hail a cab and proceed to slaughterhouse terminal.

As there were already a number of UV Express Vans waiting for passengers (only later did we discover that most actually are not going to Kabayan), we were upbeat that we are going to arrive at the Jump Off Point in Duacan at 0800H. At 0530H, another passenger arrived and joined us in waiting for other passenger inside the van. As a result of the ensuing boredom, we dozed-off and was awakened when the other passenger alighted from the van and ultimately proceeded to ride the UV Van bound for Solano, Nueva Vizcaya.

Worried that it was already 0730H, we eventually decided to pay for the fare of the whole van as long as we arrive in Duacan at 0930H.

Alone at the back...."Kabayan...Kabayan kayo diyan! Maluwag pa!"

True to his word, Manong Driver effortlessly negotiated the twists and turns of the Benguet Nueva Vizcaya Highway and by 0840H, we are already at the junction in Gurel. At 0920H, we finally arrived at the JOP in Duacan, and how good it really felt to be back.

So we paid for the entire van

Tara na!

So...the sign says it all

Starting the arduous trek

After a few minutes of photo-ops, we had to negotiate the steep climb to the Ranger Station. As we were nearing the Station, we were surprised that our companions (as organized by the S'tourS) were still there waiting for us.

Once at the Akiki Ranger Station, we were met by the warm smiles and greetings from the locals, who have recalled us as the mountaineers who conducted outreach programs at the nearby primary school. As the mother of Sir Geronimo put it, "Welcome Back Sir! You bring good tidings to the people of Duacan!". It was just so nice seeing them again, much less, knowing that they remembered us.

15 kgs.

After making our final preparations, we had compulsory group picture in front of the Akiki Ranger Station. It was already 1030H when we started the arduous and unceasing uphill climb to Mt. Pulag through its supposed "killer trail". As we were all psyched-up for the challenge, the excitement in our faces as to the adventure that lies ahead became .

Ready to go. Akiki Ranger Station

Group Picture

Saying bye to the Ranger Station. Hope to be back again.

Duacan Primary School / #PASKOokum 2015 and 2016

As we passed by Duacan Primary School, good memories of our annual outreach activity (PASKookum) came to mind. I have nothing but admiration on the kids that go to school here. While they were still very young, they would go to school everyday climbing these same steep slopes (rain or shine) that we were threading. I just hope we can again come back to be with the kids in  Duacan later this year.

As we reached the slope past the school, it dawned on me that we are now on to a different level of the climb. Just above the school is a pine forest, we even had to scale a gate (to prevent the cows from grazing into the residential area), and surprisingly the dirt road on top of the initial assault has now been widened which even went beyond the first waiting shed where we had our initial rest stop. According to our guide, the road was being improved because of the vegetable gardens on the other side of the mountain. 

Allan and Lennon...approaching the 1st waiting shed

San Jose Circuit Quatro / Akiki Quatro

From the road, we took the foot path on the right which eventually sloped downwards, signifying the start of the descent to the Eddet River Campsite. We passed by the steel railings and ultimately had a brief rest at the pine forest before the final final descent to Eddet River.

It was already 1120H when we subsequently reached the Eddet River Campsite (Camp 1 - Akiki Trail). Those who are on a 3-day / 2-night hike and would want a longer rest period for the night would usually camp here. There are toilets and also a shelter which are usually intended for the use of the guides and porters. There is also a water source in the camp itself. As for us, it is here where we decided to have our lunch. 

Approaching the Pine Forest before the descent to Eddet River

Hokage

A glimpse of the mountains that we are going to climb.

Cooking Lunch

We subsequently left the Eddet River Campsite at 1230H. Some 150 meters form the campsite is the hanging bridge. While still sturdy, we were advised that we should take turns one by one in crossing the hanging bridge. And as only one person is allowed to cross at a time, we had to spend quiet a number of minutes waiting for  our turn. As Sweepers, we were the last ones to cross the hanging bridge.

Time to negotiate the hanging bridge

Hello...on the other side!

Gwapong Mountaineer!

After spending some time for photo-ops, we continued the painstaking assault to the Helipad. The helipad is a clearing in the middle of the pine forest, and is actually somewhere after the Eddet River and signifies the final assault to Marlboro Campsite. Characterized by steep ascents (a trademark of the Akiki Trail), the panoramic views of the mountains and sound of the pine needles as they sway into air serves as an encouragement for any hiker to make that proverbial one step at a time.

At this part of the climb, the trail leading up the mountains became more visible. As such, we were simply awed by steep climb ahead.Taking time to catch our breaths, our main consolations were the presence of pine trees and the cool breeze that strengthen our resolve to move on. Of course, chitchats and stories about our past climbs helped us cope with the monotonous walkalator-like climb.

Grabe...gusto kong yakapin ang pine tree sa hingal :)

Higher Ground

As the climb went on, we literally would reach a point where we seemed to be on the same level as the other surrounding mountains (especially the mountain on the other side of Eddet River). We then reached the portion of the forest where juvenile pine trees are found. I sincerely hope a good number of these juvenile trees mature and propagate more seedlings.

At this juncture, we knew that the Helipad is just a few more minutes away. While we can already see the horizon ahead, we reminded ourselves to temper our expectations since there are a lot more challenges ahead and that we have barely scratched the distance that we aimed to cover being on an overnight hike.

It's a Pine World out there!

Alanis

Smile!

Midget Pose!

We are slowly getting there!

Peek-a-boo

Let's rock!

Hug mo 'to...Pampawala ng pagod hehehe

As we reached the final phase of the approach to the Helipad, we literally had to drag our feet to make the valuable steps into this endless stairway.

Although it seemed a lot like eternity, we finally reached the Helipad at 1345H. After a brief moment to enjoy the surroundings and for photo-ops, we rushed towards the forest and decided to take an extended rest at the second makeshift bench (made of pine logs) after the Helipad.

Final approach to the Helipad

Kayang-kaya ni Mam :)

The Helipad

The trail leading to the Marlboro Campsite is supposedly one of the most famous parts of the Akiki Trail. In this regard, it is also one of the most photographed area particularly the straight and steep trail in the middle of the pine forest.

And as we approach this area, fog started to creep in the surroundings. While the coldness brought about by the fog is very much a welcome respite from the heat that we were all feeling, it likewise evoked that added mystique to the climb. 

This steep ascent to the Marlboro Campsite is also where fatigue usually starts to be a factor. It is not uncommon for hikers to suffer cramps in this part of the trail. As they say, this is where one's character is put to the test. Whether you have the guts to will yourself to continue, and summon all the adrenaline that you, are just some of the questions that would certainly cross your mind.

At the 1st makeshift bench. The final assault to the Marlboro Country. Below is the Helipad

At the Rhino!

Twilight Zone?
One of the most-photograph parts of the trail.

One final push to Marlboro Campsite

At 1445H, we finally arrived at the Marlboro Campsite. We spent an extended time here since we had to wait for the other members of our group and confer with them if we are going to camp here (like the other group of hikers) or would continue the climb until the Saddle Camp. In this regard, we had lots of time to relieve ourselves, eat some of our trail food, replenish our water bottles, and enjoy the place (we cannot actually see a view of the surroundings because of the fog).

There are now two shelters at the Marlboro Campsite. The old one which resembles a makeshift waiting shed / tambayan, and the other that is quite similar in make as the shelter at the Eddet River and Saddle Campsites (although the one at the Saddle Campsite was destroyed by Typhoon Lawin last year). There is also a water source there, and toilets are also available for the use of hikers / campers.

The similarity of the area to the locations where previous television commercials of Marlboro were filmed was the reason why it was referred to as such, Nonetheless, as the area is actually a grazing area of cows, it would also be helpful for would-be campers to be cautious in choosing the area where they are going to pitch their tents.

Foggy Approach to Marlboro Campsite

At Marlboro Campsite

Misty

Deciding that it would be best for us to continue, we left the Marlboro Campsite at 1550H. We followed the trail near the old shelter and was immediately inside another part of the pine forest.

Because of the long rest stop that we had, it again took us quite some time to summon the strength to move on. The thin air made it even harder to breath. Nevertheless, we somehow managed to continue with the climb and was able to reach the mossy forest at 1630H.

Unfortunately, a few minutes into the mossy forest, it started to drizzle. At first, just some tiny bits of rain that made the surroundings cooler. While I know that temperature in the mossy forest is colder than that in the pine forest, the ensuing rain made the temperature even lower and eventually it started to get dark. This made the climb harder since had to carefully thread the muddy trail under gloomy conditions.

I remember the porter encouraging us to go on, saying that the last water source is already near (and that we can find a flat surface there. However, relative to the how locals perceive distance, it took us another half an hour to reach the water source. Much less, the flat surface that he mentioned is just about 30-40 feet in length. (Haahaa...you got me with that one..Just funny).

It was already 1745H when we reached the final watersource located in the middle of the mossy forest. I should say that if you are going to refill your water bottles, have them refilled in the watersource inside the mossy forest. I am not saying that the watersource at the Eddet River and Marlboro Campsites are not good, they actually are. However, the water at the mossy forest is sweeter and colder, thereby making it more thirst-quenching.

At the Mossy Forest

At the watersource, the heavy downpour continued. In this regard, our guide advised us to eCamp there. While I can sense that the group still wanted to continue, it is the guide and the porter that is insisting that we camp there. There is one problem however; the space is good only to accommodate three tents at most. Eventually, we decided that some of us would camp there while the others would go on and look for that flat surface somewhere before the grassland.

It was already 1900H when our group continued the climb in search for that much-anticipated flat surface. While we were all tired, the thought of finally resting inside the comfort of our tents and having that hot meal made us strive harder. I can feel myself having that second wind and disregarding all that weariness of my feet. Until, we finally arrived at the flat surface near the exit of the mossy forest / entrance of the grassland.

We immediately pitched our tents as the rain started to dwindle. While having our dinner, another group of climbers arrived and pitched their tents near us. All in all, I can count seven tents pitched in that eCamp that night. The last thing I remember is that I changed clothes and stretched my legs. Maybe, it was already 2125H when I dozed off since I was already unable to even answer my wife's call at 2135H.

At 0400H, we were roused from slumberland by the freezing cold (although Engr claimed that he could not sleep because of the biting cold...and allegedly me snoring like crazy heehee). The members of our group who camped near the water source already arrived and some of the members of the other group already had break camp by that time. By 0445H, we started hiking for the grassland.

At 0500H, we finally exited from the mossy forest and emerged into the grassland. Personally, in my opinion, the grassland is the toughest hurdle in the Akiki Trail. It is a continuous ascent into what is popularly known as Junior Pulag (is actually different from the Junio Pulag near Mt. Tabayoc) among mountaineers. It is not uncommon to see first-time hikers in Akiki to pushed themselves to the limit in climbing the grassland part of the Akiki Trail, thinking that the top is already the summit of Mt. Pulag only to discover that from the summit of Junior Pulag, one would still need to negotiate the rolling terrain until the Saddle Campsite, and ultimately, make the final assault to the summit of Mt. Pulag for another 15 more minutes (at least).

As we continued to climb, we also noticed the lights in the horizon twinkling like stars only that most are of the orange hue. I believe part of those lights are actually located in Baguio City. But still, Mt. Pulag is not yet visible. Looking at the lights emitted from the headlamps and torches by fellow hikers above us, we knew that we still have a long way to go.

Steep climb at the grassland

Finally at the Grassland

At 0550H, we finally reached the apex of Junior Pulag and we were so elated to finally see Mt. Pulag and the forming sea of clouds in the horizon. We carefully negotiated the ups and downs, twists and turns, of the the trail leading to the Saddle Campsite. At 0600H, we arrived at the Saddle Campsite and decided to make that final sweepers' respite at the shelter / kubo, which sadly was destroyed by Typhoon Lawin. Its roof and some parts of its wall are now badly damaged.

Rest Stop

From the kubo, we made that final ascent to the Summit. While it still is one arduous climb, we were inspired by the fact that the challenges we have overcome along the trail have toughened us to make that one final leap into the Summit. As we climbed, we spent a lot of moments to either admire the scenery, photo-ops, look back into the trail that we came from, or just to have a simple chit-chat with one another.

Rest stop before the summit

Finally at 0625H, us sweepers of the group have reached the ceiling of Luzon. While we have been able to Summit Mt. Pulag for a number of times now, each moment is really different from the other. As they say, "you never actually climb the same mountain twice". Truly, Mt. Pulag offers the best sunrise in this part of the land.

A new marker has been installed at the Summit saying that as per the latest survey conducted, Mt. Pulag has grown a few more meters to 2926MASL (from 2922MASL). Such increase may have been caused by movements in the Earth's core, or was just the result of adjustments in the mapping / survey that was made, of course, we do not know.

Now at 2926 MASL

2926.047MASL

Team StourS...with the Skookum 4

Saddle Campsite taken from the Summit

Just a wow!

Yey!

Enjoying the Sea of Clouds

Thankful for another chance to appreciate this beautiful world!

Happy Summiteers

Junior Pulag....see the trail? #akiki

Sunrise

Sea of Clouds

It was already 0745H when we decided to commence the traverse to Babalak through the Ambangeg Trail. At 0845H, we reached Camp 2 where we decided to prepare and have breakfast. We were actually starving as we partake breakfast consisting of noodles, boiled egg, and corned tuna.

It was already 1000H when we decided to continue hiking towards the Ranger Station in Babalak. Negotiating the remaining part of the trail was like a blur. No one wanted to stop (maybe because we all wanted to finally reach Babalak in order to freshen up), if at all, only for some photo-ops.

Ambangeg Trail - From the Summit

The famous solitary pine tree

Thank God...it's an easier hike down here.

Cooking Brunch at Camp 2....hot coffee please

After hiking continuously from Camp 2, we reached Camp 1 at 1100H. This is where we decided to finally take a break. After having an extended time to catch our breaths, it was already 1115H when we decided to continue descending and make that final push to the Ranger Station.

After encountering some foot traffic at the initial downslope portion from Camp 1, we were able to finally reach the foot path leading to the habal-habal station. We bought Carrot-flavored ice candy from a local vendor (since the sun was already blazing hot at that time), and it was actually so good. As we continued hiking, we finally saw the vegetable terraces in Babalak and the signs that residential areas are already near. At 1140H, we finally arrived at the Souvenir Store where we initially took time to rest. Eventually, we decided to freshen up in one of the local houses near the area.

Approaching Ambangeg

Vegetable Terraces

Sa wakas...matatapos na kami!

Campers at Babalak / Ambangeg Trail

Climbing Mt. Pulag is really a worthwhile experience. But climbing it via the Akiki Trail, will take you to another level. It requires a resilient willpower, patience, and mental more than the physical strength.

Logging-out at the DENR in Ambangeg

Good Taste....tastes good

Traipsing Chronicles #041
002.004-005.017
Mt. Pulag - Akiki to Ambangeg Traverse
2926 MASL
Jump off point: Tujakap, Duacan, Kabayan, Benguet
Major Climb: 7/10
Highlights: Unlimited Assault, Pine Forest, Mossy Forest, Grassland, Panoramic view of the Cordillera Mountain Range, Sea of Clouds.

Actual Itinerary - Overnight Hike (Akiki - Ambangeg Traverse)

Day 0 

2200H - Meet-up Genesis Bus Station Cubao (Joy Bus)
2300H - Hailed bus in EDSA for Baguio City

Day 1

0330H - Arrival at the Baguio City Bus Terminal
0340H - Advanced Breakfast ( Beef Papaitan)
0400H - 7-11 for additional provisions
0415H - Board Taxi for Slaughterhouse Terminal
0425H - Arrival at Slaughterhouse Terminal / Wait for other passengers (to no avail)
0730H - Departure for JOP - Tujakap, Duacan, Kabayan, Benguet (paid for the whole van)
0930H - Arrival at the JOP / Trailhead - Photo-ops
0945H - Arrival at the Akiki Ranger Station - Registration / Photo-ops
1030H - Commence Hiking
1055H - Arrival at the 1st waiting shed
1115H - Arrival at the pine trees before descent to Eddet River (Take 5)
1140H - Arrival at Camp 1 / Eddet River / Lunch
1230H - Commence Hiking
1250H - Sweeper was able to cross the Hanging Bridge / Photo-Ops / Start Assault to Helipad
1345H - Arrival at the Helipad / Extended rest at the 2nd makeshift wooden bench / Pine Forest
1355H - Commence Assault to Marlboro Country / Campsite
1445H - Arrival at the Marlboro Campsite / Extended Rest / Wait for the others
1530H - Arrival of the rest of the group
1550H - Commence Hike to the Mossy Forest (Drizzle starts after a few minutes)
1630H - Arrival at the entrance of the Mossy Forest (Rain continued to pour)
1745H - Arrival at the final water source (Mossy Forest) - Still Raining
1800H - Some group members decided to camp near the watersource / pitch tents
1900H - Left the watersource to find another place to e-camp
1945H - Reached the clear patch of land before left turn to Grassland
1950H - Pitch tents / Prepare Dinner
2100H - Lights Out

Day 2

0400H - Break Camp
0445H - Departure from eCamp to Mt. Pulag Summit
0500H - Arrival at the Grassland / emerged from the Mossy Forest / Unlimited Assault
0550H - Arrival at the Summit of Junior Pulag / Start of Rolling Trail to Saddle
0600H - Arrival at the Saddle Campsite / Extended rest
0610H - Commence Hike to Mt. Pulag Summit
0625H - Arrival at the Summit / Sea of Clouds / Photo-Ops
0745H - Commence descent via Ambangeg Trail
0845H - Arrival at Camp 2 / Breakfast
1000H - Commence descent to Ambangeg Ranger Station
1100H - Arrival at Camp 1 - Rest Stop
1115H - Commence descent
1135H - Arrival at the habal-habal station
1145H - Arrival at the Souvenir Shop
1230H - Wash Up
1330H - Departure for DENR (via Van until Manila)
1405H - Arrival at the DENR - Log out
1420H - Departure for Baguio City
1600H - Arrival in Baguio City / Early Dinner at Good Taste Restaurant
1730H - Departure from Good Taste to City Market (for souvenirs / pasalubong)
1810H - Departure from Baguio City for Manila
2200H - Arrival in Mcdonald's MRT Quezon Ave. Station
2210H - Home Sweet Home


***Credits to Sir Allan, Sir Lennon, and Sir Gani for the photos used in this post. Skookum!

Getting There. Please take note that while the 1st trip for the UV Express Vans going to Kabayan, Benguet at the Slaughterhouse Terminal is 0600H, they do not actually leave until and unless they already have 10 passengers. So adjust your itinerary accordingly. In our case, we waited for 3 hours and the 1 passenger that was supposed to be with us waiting  for other passengers decided to ride the van going to Solano, Nueva Vizcaya. Maybe, he will just alight at the Gurel Junction and try to hail a ride from there.

While the one-way fare to Kabayan is P150.00, we paid P1,800.00 for the van as the actual rate is P2,000.00. Maybe the excess is for the fact that they will no longer fetch passengers along the way. We did not haggle that much since we were in a hurry so the fee might be lower depending on your haggling skills.

S'tourS. The S'tourS is one of the more reliable climb organizers. It is ably managed by our fellow Skookum Mountaineer, Sir Allan Calura. Aside from hiking trips, they also schedule beacheneering and leisure trips. The StourS organize hikes to Mt. Pulag, Mt. Ulap, Maynoba Circuit, Mt. Ugo, Mt. Tapulao, Tarak Ridge, and San Jose Circuit. They also schedule trips to Sagada, Baler, and Calaguas Island.

For more information, you may reach the Facebook Page of StourS or contact Sir Allan Calura at +63 995 418 8633.

Akiki here we come!

Inside the Ranger Station

Kaya pa?

The dirt road

Skookum / StourS / Sweepers

Just a light moment at the trail

Snapshot

One by one

Eddet River

Sir Gani...ang halimaw sa akyatan!

Serious climber

Grafted?

Rest Stop

Sir Lennon....so nice to hike with you again!

Love 'em mountains!

Emoticon

Malapit na tayo...

One step at a time

So this is what Akiki is like!

Deadwood

Shelter at the Marlboro Campssite

Mossy Forest

Footsie...finally at the grassland

Till next time!

Sea of Clouds

#salomon

Ambangeg Trail

Mt. Pulag

Allan: Chicks!

Price List