"Great things are done when men and mountains meet."
- William Blake -
Mt. Batulao has been known in the mountaineering circle as one of the better climbs near Metro Manila. It offers a challenging hike that offers a lot of rewards to aspiring hikers that would wish to practice some technical facets of climbing. Hence, it is not uncommon for mountaineers to have their baptism of fire in this mountain.
This popularity of Mt. Batulao has reared its ugly head. Controversies and issues regarding registrations and rules on climbing and guides resulted to climbers shying away from tramping in this hub of Philippine mountaineering.
Previously, in any given holiday or weekend, hikers would come in droves, 300 hikers tramping on its picturesque peaks and ridges would be an understatement. Foot traffic at the roped segments is comparable to EDSA and the summit is jam-packed at any given time of the day. But now, according to the local that I talked to, a lucky day would mean about a hundred or so hikers passing through the registration areas. I admit, I am one of those who were disenchanted and eventually became indifferent to climbing this popular tramping ground because of the so many issues that supposedly cropped up from the personal interests of some people.
As for my actual solo hike (sorry I do not actually encourage anyone doing this), I was really on my way to Pico de Loro that day, but as I was somewhere in Tanza, I saw Mt. Batulao on the southeast. Hence, the idea of going back to Mt. Batulao after two (2) years of hiatus popped in my mind. The urge of personally seeing the developments in Mt. Batulao became irresistible. A new trail to old trail traverse, something that I have not done before sounded tempting. Hence, I decided to turn towards Indang until I reached Mendez Crossing in Tagaytay City. From there, Batulao was just a 15 minute drive.
It was 1210H when I arrived at the parking lot just before the residential area. After taking some time to rest and to dress-up, I started hiking at 1250H. Some locals where asking if I will secure the services of a guide, to which I politely declined. No problem there, it is therefore confirmed that hiring local guides are no longer mandatory when you hike through the traditional old and new trails. Again, some locals asked if I would want to ride a tricycle at least until the junction where the Elementary School is located, but again I respectfully said no.
It was already 1310 when I arrived at the junction. While I expected muddy, if not at least slippery trail/road conditions from there but thank God, the rains the night before and that morning were just enough to give much needed moisture to the parched earth.
At 1325, I arrived at the 1st hut with a nearby store. While the storekeeper offered some fresh buko juice, I again politely declined. At 1335, I arrived at the fork where the old and new trails converge. After paying respects to some mountaineers and locals who were then having lunch, I continued to hike under the heat of the sun. As I approach Peak 5, a dog cautiously approached me. Sensing that the dog was hungry. I then gave him a pack of my Dewberry. With this, the dog accompanied me until I arrived at the registration site (This is different from the campsite at Peak 8 being manned by Mang Resty, who incidentally was at the house in the junction celebrating the birthday of his grandchild. It was already 1400 when I arrived there.
It was great hearing firsthand the latest news from the person manning the registration area. According to him, just two weeks ago, there was an issue regarding hikers who were forced to pay registration fees at the health center under the jurisdiction of Balayan town (which incidentally is located along the dirt road). It was confirmed during the meeting of the Brgy. Chairmen of the two Barangays having jurisdiction of the area that payment of registration fees in the said health center shall be required only if hikers will hike in the River Trail. So please be guided accordingly.
When I continued at 1410, it started to drizzle. Nevertheless, I pushed on towards the summit. Batulao was unusually quiet, I could here the wind whistle and feel the coolness of the drizzle that somewhat made my hike more bearable. I really missed the peaks and jagged edges of Batulao and climbing it via the New Trail provides a different perspective. I could only imagine the areas where I used to slide, glide and run is now the same trail that I try to earnestly scale. The roped segments were indeed very helpful, as I stopped for a while to enjoy the surroundings. And I noticed, there are now more trees in Batulao than the first time I went there. I could see small trees growing along the trail and even in ridges that are not really accessible to hikers.
At 1500H, I finally reached the summit (Camp 10 / Peak 12). It was so unusual to be alone at the summit. No crowd to photobomb each selfie I take, and no unnecessary noise to disrupt the stillness of the moment. I actually felt one with nature.
After 10 minutes, I decided to start descending via the Old Trail. I enjoyed rappelling down the wall and eagerly anticipated reaching the Solitary Tree. To my surprise, there are now gumamela (hibiscus) plants in the area. This spot is my indicator for the final push for the summit whenever I climb Batulao. But now, it was the other way around. As I approach Camp 1, I enjoyed the blackberries which actually reminded me of my childhood in the province. There was this blackberry tree near our house that I usually pick fruits from. If I could only go back in time, I really would.
At 1550H, I arrived at Camp 1 where only foal (who actually seemed so lonely) welcomed me. No one was manning the registration area so I continued hiking after a breather. At the river, I was surprised that the bamboo bridge is now gone.
It was 1600 when I reached Camp Ligaya, where a howling dog and a purring cat (together with some ducks and poultry) welcomed me. As I did not immediately see the cat, I gave all of my biscuits to the dog, which I surmised is already hungry and trying to call his master. Moving on, I encountered a fork in the trail (which was relatively new to me), but chose the older trail in the left which led to the hut that previously served as a rest stop for hikers. Unfortunately, the hut is already in a state of disrepair. As such, I just went on my way.
Just before the Old Trial - New Trail Junction, a stallion has unconsciously blocked my path. So i was carefully passed by the horse as it was busy munching grass at that time. At 1610, I finally reached the Old Trail - New Trail junction. At the last hut after Peak 1 and before the residential area, I finally decided to rest.
When I continued, I reached the elementary school junction at 1635H. Locals tried to offer a tricycle ride but I politely declined. Nonetheless, I just kept a steady and relaxed pace until at 1700H, I eventually reached the store (opposite the area that serves as talipapa).
It was really so weird to have Batulao for myself that day. I never imagined I would find a lot answers and inspirations in its solitude and serenity. From the campsite in Peak 8, until I again reached the junction, I only had birds, dogs, cats, and other animals for company. Beautiful and wonderful memories that seemed to be frozen in time came back bringing a lot hope and promise. I learned to appreciate more than ever the coolness of the wind, the chill that a drizzle brings, the wildflowers that seem to invite for a kiss and the dirt on my feet.
Traipsing Chronicles #037
006.030.016
Mt. Batulao - Traverse (New Trail to Old Trail)
Nasugbu, Batangas
Minor Climb: 3/9 811MASL
Highlights: 360° view at the summit ( Balayan Bay, Tagaytay Ridge, Taal Lake, Taal Volcano, Laguna Lake, Mt. Makiling, Mt. Talamitam, Pico de Loro); rolling terrain; roped segments; open trail;
Actual Itinerary (please be reminded that we did not use public transportation so make the necessary adjustments)
1210 Arrival at the parking and wash up area (just after the junction leading to Caleruega)
1250 Start trek (we hired a tricycle to take us deep inside the jump-off point)
1310 Arrived at the split / cleft (take the trail on the left side going down)
1325 Arrived at the rest stop (1st hut)
1335 Reached the junction (followed the New Trail)
1400 Reached Peak 8 - Register
1415 Continued Hike to Summit
1500 Summit
1510 Start descending via Old Trail
1535 Reached the famous Solitary Tree (Camp 8)
1550 Arrival at Camp 1
1600 Arrival at Camp Ligaya
1610 Arrived at the Junction
1620 Arrived at the store/hut after Peak 1 - Rest
1635 Arrival at the junction / Elementary School / Souvenir Store
1700 Back at the Parking before junction to Caleruega / Wash-up
Getting There. Just board any bus going to Nasugbu, Lian, or Calatagan in Batangas and tell the conductor that you are going to alight at Evercrest. From there, you may choose to start hiking or hire a tricycle that will bring you deep into the residential area (until the junction where you will have to take the dirt road on the left and not the road on the right that leads to the school) for P120.00.
In case you have your own transportation, just go to Tagaytay City and traverse the highway leading towards Nasugbu, Batangas. Evercrest is located on the left side of the road more or less a kilometer after the "Welcome to Nasugbu" arch.
Guides. Guides are readily available (most of them are children aged between 11 to 15). It is advisable to hire one for first-timers or if there are a lot of novice climbers in your group.
Registration Fees. There are different caretakers for the Old Trail and the New Trail. Hence, the need to pay P20.00 on both registration areas in case you are doing the traverse.
In Camp Ligaya, a registration fee of P10.00 is also required.
Wash-up. There are houses at the residential area and along the highway who charge P20.00 each person.
Side Trip. Spending extra time in Tagaytay City is common among mountaineers after scaling Mt. Batulao. Nonetheless, some would choose to proceed to the beaches in Nasugbu or even as far as Calatagan.
Trails. Although it may be subjective, many consider climbing through the New Trail easier than doing the traverse via the Old Trail. Consider this as a tip, it is observed that most tour operators / weekend warriors choose to climb via the New Trail.
As per my experience in this solohike, it is indeed easier to hike up the summit via the New Trail.
There is a new trail that goes through the river but will eventually end up somewhere in the Old Trail. This is supposedly under the jurisdiction of Balayan, Batangas. One needs to secure a guide and register at the Health Center along the dirt road located somewhere the residential area.
Other Posts about Mt. Batulao:
Mt. Batulao - Old Trail to New Trail Traverse (Traipsing Chronicles 010)
Batulao - Talamitam Twinhike (Traipsing Chronicles 006)
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